Soldiers and snow in Xi’an

Arrived in Xian and got to our hostel no problems, just had to ignore the usual hassle form taxi drivers who implied it was way to far to walk there (hostel was a 10 minute walk from the airport bus). Saw the Drum and Bell tower in the centre which were ok but not particularly interesting, but an ancient style drum performance was pretty good. Next day we visited what we'd all been waiting for – the terracotta warriors. I think we were perhaps all a little underwhelmed as it's such a hyped up tourist attraction and so famous worldwide. There just weren't as many warriors as I was expecting and standing on the viewing terrace in the main hanger, looking out over the excavated ranks of soldiers, I didn't feel I was facing a vast army - which was what I'd hoped for. The history of the construction of the warriors was fascinating though. Amazing to think that 7,000 workers painstakingly sculpted each of these figures, adding their own individual features and alterations in armour and clothing. Apparently the sculptors worked in pairs and based the face of their warrior on the real face of their partner. However, once the terracotta army was complete every single sculptor was slaughtered so that the Emperor's secret mausoleum and underground necropolis could remain secret. He was crazy apparently.

Next day had a VERY cold cycle round the city walls, which are still completely intact and impressive to see. Then visited the Great Mosque and the Muslim Quarter, which some of the best street food I've had in China! So delicious. Finished the day with the light and water show at the Great Goose Pagoda which was pretty cool - and free.

Next day decided to go to "nearby" Hua Shan, one of China's 5 sacred mountains. I'd already done one in Hunan so was keen to tick off another. Trip shoulda been easy – just a short bus to bus station then an hours bus journey to the mountain from there. But that morning China happened.. as it often does. Bus didn't leave for 3 hours as it was the situation where they wait for the bus to be completely full before leaving. Journey took aaages so arrived at the mountain 6 hours after leaving the hostel. For some reason we didn't get dropped off at the popular bit so made the most of it and climbed up anyway. We seemed to be the only people there so we felt like proper explorers and the scenery was amazing. Started to get concerned about time and the increasingly icy conditions so headed back to try to get a bus home – which basically involved skidding and sliding down the icy path. Found a bus no problem. But then the snow started and got increasingly heavier. Ended up stuckin a snow storm for 2 and a half hours while the driver tried to attach snow chains to the treadless tires and wait for congestion to clear.  5 hours later we got home.

Long lie after very tiring previous day. This was the 11th of Feb - day before my birthday. As we were parting ways with Karen, who was off to Shanghai next day to meet a friend from home, we decided to celebrate my birthday that night in the hostel with a cheap bottle of whisky and some other friends we'd made in the hostel. The other suggested the lethal drinking game ring of fire and we had a lot of fun. At midnight Karen and Helen gave me Shampoo (sorely needed) and a Mahjong set. Thanks again to them! It was a good night and a great way to say goodbye.